Prague is one of those cities that lives in your imagination long before you ever step foot in it. A castle perched on a hill, endless spires puncturing the skyline, and the Vltava River winding its way through it all. I’d been longing to visit Prague since college. I’d come so close so many times, yet somehow never made it there.
That finally changed in 2018, when I spent two nights in Prague during the Christmas market season. Yes, it was beautiful but it was also absolutely jam-packed. Shoulder-to-shoulder crowds, umbrellas constantly poking you, and a general sense of tourist overload made the experience… miserable. I left thinking, Well, that was nice to see once.
Fast forward to early 2025. When a friend and I were planning a trip that would include Vienna and Budapest, I cautiously suggested Prague. If she was interested, I figured I’d give it one more chance, this time in the off-season.
And I am so glad I did. This second visit couldn’t have been more different. Fewer tourists, calmer streets, space to actually see and feel the city. No Christmas markets this time, but what I gained instead was the ability to fall in love with Prague properly.
How Long Do You Need in Prague?
At a minimum: 2 full days and 2 nights.
Ideally: 3 days / 3 nights.
You can hit the highlights in two days, but an extra day allows for slower wandering or a day trip outside the city, and Prague is absolutely the kind of place that rewards unstructured exploring.
Prague Castle: The Non-Negotiable
If you do one major sight in Prague, make it Prague Castle.
Perched high above the city, the complex itself is stunning before you even step inside. While the interior of the “castle” isn’t what most people imagine (there’s not a lot of opulence, and much of it has been restored), the real star is St. Vitus Cathedral. This was, hands down, my favorite thing in Prague.
The first time I visited, it was closed due to a state event, so finally seeing it felt special. Inside, it gives off full Game of Thrones energy: soaring ceilings, dramatic stonework, and sunlight pouring through richly colored stained glass windows. It’s one of those places that’s genuinely hard to describe because photos don’t quite do it justice. Let me say it again, the beautiful sunlight coming through the stain glass windows, wow! I still get shivers thinking about it.
Other things to see within the castle grounds:
- Golden Lane with its charming, old-timey houses
- A small torture chamber and medieval exhibits
- Displays of armor that always make me chuckle — especially if, like me, you watched A Knight’s Tale far too many times as a young adult
- St. George’s Basilica
All of these spots are included with your ticket which costs 450CZK per adult (roughly $21.50 ) or for a family 950CZK (about $45.50). The family ticket includes two adults and one to five kids. Audioguides and various other exhibits cost extra.
Once you’re done inside, take your time wandering the surrounding area. This side of the river is magic.
Malá Strana: Prague at Its Prettiest
If I had to choose one area of Prague to slowly wander without an agenda, it would be Malá Strana.
In my opinion, it’s the most beautiful and atmospheric part of the city. Highlights include:
- St. Nicholas Church
- Strolling along Zlatá ulička u Daliborky, a colorful and photogenic street
- Hradčany Square
- Admiring the exterior of Loreto Palace
- Visiting Strahov Monastery (worth going inside if you have time)
- Walking over the Charles Bridge from Old Town to get there is also iconic.
Pro tip: The area just outside Strahov Monastery offers some of the best views over Prague.
Honestly, the joy of Malá Strana is simply exploring. Quiet streets, hidden staircases, unexpected viewpoints, it’s blissful.
One thing I somehow missed on both trips on this side of the river: The Lennon Wall, a wall of graffiti in honor of John Lennon.
I also nearly missed Nejužší pražská ulička — no pun intended, but it’s so narrow you can walk right past it without realizing
Nearby, we found a charming gingerbread shop called Perníkový panáček, plus a beer pub with a lovely outdoor garden and surprisingly good pasta (the name escapes me). On our most recent trip, we ate at an Irish pub near the American embassy. Cliché, yes, but cozy, friendly, and a welcome spot after a long day of walking. And, there is of course unexpected things you might come across including floral shops, people taking little boating trips on the river and unique art.
Old Town & New Town: Iconic and Worth It
On the other side of the river are Staré Město and Nové Město and you shouldn’t skip them. Staré Město also known as Old Town is located in the Prague 1 district. You’ll see that a lot as you look at hotel reservations. This really is the main area of town.
Old Town Square is iconic for a reason. Yes, it’s busy, but it’s undeniably beautiful. Nearby, Staroměstská radnice (Old Town Hall) is another standout, along with several stunning churches. Just be sure to check opening hours, as they vary.
Don’t miss:
- The Jewish Quarter, which offers a quieter, more reflective side of the city
- Wandering aimlessly as this is truly one of the best ways to experience Prague
- Grabbing a chimney cake (trdelník). Tourist trap? Maybe. Delicious? Absolutely. One of the best spots is Trdelnik & Coffee.
Prague is a city where simply walking, no checklist, no schedule is deeply satisfying. Some really cool buildings to see are the Powder Tower, Dancing House near the river and also don’t miss the Astronomical Clock when you are in the Old Town Square. Do note that there are a lot of restaurants in Old Town Square. They are pricey, but it’s also nice to sit and have a beer and watch the world go by. You can always go to eat off the beaten path for more affordable options.
Nové Město, which means New Town, has shopping, historic buildings, a variety of churches that are just beautiful to wander into and the Dancing House which is an interesting looking and iconic building in Prague.
Where to Stay in Prague
I’ve stayed at two excellent hotels:
- Century Old Town – MGallery Prague – close to metro transit
- Hotel Cube Prague – near the river and very walkable
Both were comfortable and well-located. That said, if (when) I return, I’d stay on the Malá Strana side. It feels quieter, more charming, and more “Prague” to me. The livelier side of the river was great and not noisy, but Malá Strana just has a special pull.
Getting Around Prague
We walked almost everywhere. Prague is very walkable if you’re comfortable covering a lot of ground. There are trams and buses if you need them though. You can easily get between the train station and town and airport and town by using an Uber. Ubers are affordable. There’s no need for renting a car in Prague.
Food, Beer & the Airport
Good food is not hard to find, and Czech beer is famously cheap (and excellent). This dish was fried cheese and potatoes. Absolutely delicious. This was a restaurant right across the street from the Hotel Cube.
The airport is modern and easy to navigate. When we were there, the Mastercard Lounge Prague was under renovation, so food options were limited but there was certainly no shortage of drink options. You can access with Priority Pass.
Easy Day Trips from Prague
If you have extra time, Prague makes a great base for day trips:
- Brno
- Kutná Hora (home to the famous bone church)
- Český Krumlov
Final Thoughts
Prague taught me a valuable travel lesson: timing matters.
My first visit left me overwhelmed and underwhelmed at the same time. My second visit, slower, quieter, and off-season allowed the city to show its true charm. With fewer crowds, Prague becomes what you always imagined it would be: romantic, atmospheric, and endlessly walkable.
If you’re on the fence, go, just choose your timing wisely.
